Electrical Repairs and Rewiring in Austin
For outlets and switches that quit, circuits that misbehave, and older wiring that has aged past its best.
Most repair calls start small: one dead outlet, a light that flickers, a breaker that trips when the microwave and the toaster run together. Finding the cause is most of the work. A dead outlet is often a tripped GFCI two rooms away, a loose connection at the outlet before it, or a breaker that has quietly worn out. Chasing down dead outlets and flickering lights is one of the company’s most common calls.
Repair and Wiring Services
- Dead or loose outlets, and switches that spark, crackle or fail
- GFCI protection for kitchens, baths, garages, laundry areas and outdoor outlets, and AFCI protection for living spaces
- New dedicated circuits and 240-volt circuits for kitchens, garages, shops and home offices
- Two-prong outlets converted to grounded outlets
- Partial or whole-house rewiring
- Added outlets and circuits for remodels and additions, with the patching that follows
Every receptacle that gets touched is tested for correct wiring and grounding before the job is called finished, and GFCI and AFCI devices are tripped with their test buttons to confirm they work.
Wiring Found in Older Austin Houses
Central Austin has bungalows from the 1920s through the 1950s and ranch houses from the decades after. Each era left its own wiring behind.
Swipe left to see the rest of the table.
| Wiring type | Typical era | Concern | Options |
|---|---|---|---|
| Knob-and-tube | 1900s–1940s | No ground, brittle insulation, often spliced into by later owners | Replace, usually room by room or as part of a remodel |
| Cloth-sheathed cable | 1940s–1960s | Insulation that cracks with age and heat, often no ground | Replace the worst runs, rewire when walls open |
| Aluminum branch wiring | Late 1960s–1970s | Connections that loosen and overheat | Copper pigtails with rated connectors, or rewire |
| Ungrounded circuits | Before the 1960s | No path to ground for faults or surge protection | Run a ground, rewire, or GFCI protection labeled as ungrounded |
Warning Signs
- Lights that flicker or dim without a reason
- Cover plates or switches that feel warm
- A burning or hot-plastic smell near an outlet or the panel
- Crackling or buzzing from a switch, an outlet or the wall
- Breakers that trip often
A burning smell, scorch marks or crackling are reasons to turn the circuit off and call, not to wait. The Emergencies page covers what to do first.
Repair One Circuit, or Rewire the House?
Fixing the circuit that failed is the right call when the rest of the wiring is sound. Rewiring makes sense when the trouble is the wiring itself. These factors usually decide it:
- Age and type. Knob-and-tube and brittle cloth cable fail along their length, not just at one spot.
- Access. An open attic and a crawlspace make running new cable far simpler than a slab house with finished walls.
- Insurance questions. Some insurers ask about knob-and-tube, aluminum wiring or fuse boxes before they write or renew a policy.
- Remodel plans. When walls are coming open for a kitchen or a bath, rewiring that part of the house costs far less effort than it will later.
Because the company began as a handyman service, the wall openings, patching and finish work that rewiring brings can stay on the same job.
Questions About Repairs and Rewiring
My house has aluminum branch wiring. Does it all have to come out?
Not always. Single-strand aluminum wiring from the late 1960s and 1970s is a fire concern mainly at its connections, where it loosens and heats. Approved repairs connect short copper pigtails to each aluminum wire with connectors rated for the job, at every outlet, switch and fixture. Full replacement is the other route, often chosen during a remodel when the walls are open anyway.
Should a worn outlet be repaired or replaced?
Replaced. An outlet that no longer grips a plug, has a cracked face or shows heat marks is a cheap part, and fixing it rarely makes sense. The useful question is why it failed: a loose backstabbed connection, an overloaded circuit or a damaged wire behind it all need fixing along with the outlet.
Can a two-prong outlet just be swapped for a three-prong one?
Only when a ground is present. Without one, the code-approved choices are to run a ground, rewire the circuit, or install a GFCI outlet labeled “No Equipment Ground,” which protects people but does not give surge strips and electronics a true ground.